Monday, June 26, 2017

La Minita del Sol at Batdorf & Bronson: Old School at its Finest


This morning I'm drinking a cup of Costa Rica La Minita del Sol Tarrazu from Batdorf & Bronson. The first word out of my mouth after the first sip was "magnificent," and my wife Erin remarked "I haven't heard you use that word to describe coffee in a long time. Come to think of it, I've never heard you describe a coffee using that word."

As usual with La Minita, the greatness comes from perfect balance and ripeness, not show-stopping weirdness or intensity. The cup is the very definition of sweetness - as professional tasters use the word mind you (a perfect symmetry of acidity, flavor and body) rather than the popular meaning of simple sugariness.

If memory serves La Minita was first introduced to the market in 1987, meaning that this year marks three decades of consistent excellence. This is something that really deserves to be celebrated and appreciated in the specialty coffee trade. Perhaps it has been (at least among La Minita's many loyal customers) but I haven't seen any fanfare in the coffee press.

I was working at Starbucks when this coffee made its debut, and I think it was Tim Castle who sent us samples of it to cup. At the time our gold standard for Costa Rican coffee was Finca Bella Vista, and we bought a considerable amount of their production (Starbucks later went on to tie up the whole crop, much to the annoyance of Jim Reynolds at Peet's and many others), along with several other screamingly acidic Costa Ricans offered by our Hamburg-based green coffee brokers.

It fell on Mr. Castle and Bill McAlpin, the brilliant and often delightfully cantankerous owner of La Minita, to re-educate my palate to the virtues of fully ripe coffee cherries, as it turned out that in most cases the blazing, unbalanced acidity so doted upon in the Starbucks and Peet's world was due to picking cherry that was slightly unripe. No surprise that green coffee with acidity to burn would be doted upon when that's what you're going to do to the coffee in the roaster, but letting fully ripe coffee express itself through gentle, precise roasting was a lesson I had to learn from Mssrs. McAlpin and Castle, aided and abetted in no small measure by George Howell.

Enough time has elapsed that I'm quite sure I don't remember more than a small number of the ways that La Minita blazed the trail for what was to come, but here are a few:

1. The coffee was offered at an outright price (if memory serves it was $3.00 a pound - and remember this was 30 years ago!)  reflecting the work that went into it. What a novelty this was in a world where most top coffees sold for a differential (premium) of 20-50 cents over "C."

2. It was the original specialty coffee because its asking price and position in the marketplace was based on  doing everything required to achieve perfect cup quality, rather than on extraneous factors like rarity, exclusivity or country of origin (think Kona and Jamaican Blue Mountain: rare, expensive and utterly forgettable in the cup). Mr. McAlpin's sales pitch, whether at the farm or when offering you a sample of La Minita espresso at a trade show (no milk or sugar in sight) was invariably the same: "here, taste this."

3. Like Bill McAlpin himself, La Minita was fanatical about quality while also being about as un-PC and iconoclastic as is humanly possible. From the outset the farm was a showcase for the obvious fact that quality and quantity aren't mutually exclusive, producing considerable quantities of flawless coffee through attention to detail and clear standards. No "heirloom" varietals here but rather the caturra and catuai types that had already proven to be ideal for La Minita's Tarrazu terroir. Sustainably produced to be sure, with worker welfare and state-of-the-art agricultural practices, but without the slightest interest in certifications like organic or fair-trade which are as unsustainable as they are irrelevant (not to mention being a distraction from the pursuit of quality) in a Costa Rican context.


In today's specialty coffee market novelty and weirdness - think $100 a pound microlots made from oddball cultivars like Gesha whose flavor characteristics are more reminiscent of flavored tea than coffee - the only thing you're less likely to find than a coffee like La Minita that slays with subtlety and balance is the classic full city roast. As you can see from the photo of La Minita above that, too, is alive and well at Batdorf & Bronson, who've had a particularly close and fruitful relationship with this coffee for nearly thirty years.

A friend currently working there who like me has spent perhaps too long in the business reminded me that back when I was at Starbucks Batdorf was made fun of for roasting too light, while today many of their Third Wave competitors say they roast far too dark - when the reality is the default roast there - classic chestnut brown with no second pop and no oil (i.e. Full City) has remained the same for decades. For this particular coffee - at least for drip or Aeropress preparation - I'd describe full city as being truly "signature-less" roasting, using that term in exactly the way it's used in the wine trade: a degree of process that simply tries to let the terroir and the grower's work speak for itself without adding any style notes from the roaster-cum-winemaker.



8 comments:

  1. As someone who got into coffee via the third wave coffees that you don't like, but was very impressed by your Upton Tea recommendations, I'm minded to try this - any particular brewing tips? From this comment:

    http://coffeecontrarian.blogspot.co.uk/2016/05/in-praise-of-plushness.html?showComment=1463766130857#c3427376433983943195

    I'm wondering about using an Aeropress for 5 minutes on a French Press grind?

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  2. Hi Toby!

    You can't go wrong with this lot of La Minita from Batforf & Bronson, that's for sure. Vacuum pot would be my first choice for such a refined and sparkling coffee, followed by Clever Dripper or other good drip pot. Aeropress works great too but I'd go with the company's own recommendation: one Aeropress scoop or about 12 grams of beans per 6 oz. cup, quite fine grind (~Melitta), using below-boiling water with a quick stir and less than two minutes of infusion time (basically just however long it takes to stir, add more water up to the meniscus and gently plunge). Would love to hear what you think of the coffee.

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  3. Wonderful, thank you - I will be in the US in a couple of weeks and I will do my best to get hold of this and give it a go, and I'll report back when I do. Perhaps I'll even get my old Clever dripper back out again (I haven't used it in years, after a few experiences with it not draining properly).

    Also, thanks for keeping this blog going - I'm a complete ignoramus when it comes to coffee, but I always find your posts fascinating.

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  4. If Sweetness is defined by professionals as "a perfect symmetry of acidity, flavor and body," then what's the definition for Balance?

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    1. Hi MJ!

      "Sweetness" has a pretty long history of use among professional cuppers, while "balance" is purely a consumer marketing term - and a good one!

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  6. Hi Kevin,
    It's been around 3 years now that I've been reading your blog and I simply want to say thank you.
    I'm in the coffee business for around 15 years and still consider myself a student; your writings have been one of my favorite online teachers :)
    I'm on my way now to Crete, for a week, with the wife and kids and am taking my Clever with me. The same Clever I bought following one of your posts.
    So... thanks for sharing and for still writing.
    Dan

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  7. Kevin,

    I'm so happy to have another post from you. I'm even happier to have a recommendation from you for a coffee that embodies all you speak about. Thank you for keeping this blog alive. I look forward to more insights from your considerable experience in the industry.

    David

    P.S. I bought your book a while back and I found it incredibly useful in furthering my knowledge of coffee.

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